While the skinny jeans versus wide-leg denim debate rages on, one thing seems abundantly clear: denim is becoming increasingly sustainable.
Denim’s roots trace back to the late 18th century, with origins in the French town of Nîmes, where the fabric “serge de Nîmes” was first developed — giving denim its name. Initially used for workwear, denim’s ruggedness made it ideal for laborers. In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis revolutionized the material by introducing riveted denim pants, now known as jeans, designed to withstand the demands of miners and cowboys during the American Gold Rush. The fabric’s popularity surged beyond utilitarian use, becoming a symbol of rebellion in the 1950s, embraced by youth movements and cultural icons like James Dean.
Much of denim’s appeal lies in its unique weave — a durable, diagonal twill pattern that makes it long-lasting yet breathable. Traditionally, denim was woven from 100 percent cotton and dyed with indigo, giving it the iconic blue hue. Over time, washing processes created varying shades and textures, adding to its versatile charm. Historically, though, denim is resource-intensive, requiring more than 1,000 gallons of water to create a single pair. Denim is also a damaging pollutant; by its own estimates, Levi’s, the most popular producer of American denim, says each pair of its iconic jeans emits more than 73 pounds of CO2. That’s akin to the emissions produced from driving more than 620 miles.
Global denim production’s issues range from excessive water use to widespread chemical pollution. Producing a single pair of jeans can require up to 2,000 gallons of water, largely due to the water-intensive process of cotton cultivation and the various washing, dyeing, and finishing stages. Many cotton-growing regions, such as India and Pakistan, already face water scarcity, exacerbating local shortages. Additionally, the dyeing process, which often relies on synthetic indigo and harsh chemicals, can pollute water sources when untreated wastewater is discharged into rivers, harming aquatic ecosystems and local communities.
The heavy reliance on cotton also introduces environmental challenges related to pesticide use. Cotton farming accounts for 16 percent of the world’s insecticide consumption and seven percent of all pesticide use, leading to soil degradation and contamination of groundwater. Over time, the excessive use of fertilizers and irrigation has contributed to desertification in major cotton-producing areas. Beyond agricultural impacts, denim production is highly energy-intensive. Processes like spinning, dyeing, and washing require significant electricity, contributing to the industry’s carbon footprint. Global transportation of raw materials and finished products further increases emissions.
Another concern is microfiber pollution. When synthetic fibers such as elastane are blended with cotton in denim, microplastics are released during washing and end up in the oceans, disrupting marine ecosystems. The issue is compounded by the fashion industry’s tendency toward overproduction and waste. Fast fashion cycles lead to excessive inventory, and many discarded denim garments are incinerated or sent to landfills, where they contribute to environmental degradation. While recycling denim is possible, the practice remains limited, with most unwanted clothing entering unsustainable waste streams.
Worker health and safety is another pressing issue. Techniques such as sandblasting, used to create distressed denim, expose laborers to silica dust, which can cause respiratory illnesses like silicosis. In many developing countries, factories may lack proper safety protocols, further endangering workers through exposure to toxic chemicals.
But companies are working to fix denim’s footprint. Some companies are switching to organic or recycled cotton to reduce water use and eliminate pesticide reliance. Others are adopting eco-friendly dyeing methods, such as ozone washing or plant-based dyes, and recycling water to limit waste. The rise of innovative, sustainable fibers is also helping to lessen environmental impact. Brands are beginning to promote better consumption habits, encouraging customers to wash jeans less frequently and invest in high-quality, long-lasting pieces.
Tommy Hilfiger, for example, has not been shy about its sustainability commitments. In 2022, it partnered with singer Shawn Mendes and Ecovative, the mycelium leather company, to signal big shifts ahead for the brand.
Its Denim Progressed collection is built entirely on recycled or renewable materials, including deadstock and lower-impact fibers such as hemp. The launch builds on the brand’s commitment to make 50 percent of its denim offerings sustainable by 2025 is part of its mission to reduce its environmental impact “while delivering stylish, more sustainable denim.
U.S. denim producer DL1961, which launched the world’s first “high-performance” circular jeans in 2022, has become a leader in sustainable denim production, integrating eco-friendly practices across its entire manufacturing process. The brand operates through vertical integration, meaning that it oversees production from fiber to finished garment in its family-owned factory. This structure ensures traceability, quality control, and minimized environmental impact. DL1961 has embraced innovative technologies, such as the use of recycled water and solar energy, to further reduce resource consumption.
Its collaboration with Recover, a materials science company, involves breaking down textile waste and weaving it into new garments, resulting in high-performance jeans made with recycled fibers like Tencel and Repreve, a polyester derived from post-consumer plastic bottles. These fibers contribute to the production of jeans that are not only sustainable but also breathable and functional. DL1961’s recent Spring/Summer 2024 line incorporates linen blends and wide-leg silhouettes, offering consumers eco-conscious wardrobe essentials without sacrificing design or comfort.
The Recover capsule collection, fronted by supermodel and eco-advocate Candice Swanepoel, highlights the brand’s commitment to sustainability. This collection features trend-forward denim styles made with recycled fibers, supporting DL1961’s mission to create stylish, environmentally responsible clothing for the modern consumer.
Dutch denim label Mud Jeans says it has launched what it’s calling another circular fashion first — jeans made entirely from post-consumer recycled cotton. Mud says it’s using a solution that contains 50 percent mechanically recycled fibers along with 50 percent chemically recycled fibers. The process was developed in part with Saxion University of Applied Sciences in the Netherlands. Mechanical recycling involves shredding fabric into a new fiber form while chemical recycling sees cellulose material dissolved through an organic compound that can be re-used.
Although brands like Levi’s, Reformation, and Good American have been touting sustainable denim for years, according to Dion Vijgeboom, Mud Jeans co-owner, making 100 percent circular jeans was “technically impossible,” until recently. The company already uses 40 percent post-consumer fibers as well as organic cotton, which decreases water use by 93 percent and drops the CO2 emissions by 74 percent compared to conventional denim. But shifting to 100 percent post-consumer recycled fabric will help reduce the use of cotton—a concern, particularly in the wake of a recent exposé on India’s organic cotton industry.
“As a producer you have to take responsibility for your product,” Vijgeboom said. “We want to show that a world without waste—thanks to a circular economy—is possible and achievable.”
Brands may have a new tool to help address cotton sustainability. Cascale, formerly the Sustainable Apparel Coalition, has introduced a refined cotton life cycle assessment (LCA) methodology for the Higg Materials Sustainability Index (Higg MSI). This update offers what Cascale says is an unprecedented level of accuracy and consistency in evaluating the environmental impact of cotton fiber.
The Higg MSI serves as a cradle-to-gate tool, calculating environmental impacts from raw material extraction through production and finishing, up to the point where the material is ready for product assembly. Over the past three years, Cascale brought together experts and stakeholders through the Higg MSI Methodology Cotton Expert Team to develop a cotton-specific methodology, aligning the industry’s approach with LCA principles.
“This update is a testament to the power of industry-wide collaboration,” Joël Mertens, Director of Higg Product Tools at Cascale, said in a statement. “By bringing together diverse stakeholders who work directly with cotton growers, we’ve created a methodology that not only improves cotton LCA data but advances transparency through continuous updates and evolution. This in turn allows for better partnerships and decision-making across supply chains to drive real sustainability outcomes.”
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This post was previously published on THE-ETHOS.CO and is republished on Medium.
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The post Once One of the Biggest Emissions Producers, Denim Now Leads the Sustainability Shift appeared first on The Good Men Project.